Hi
> I don't know if this is where I post my question, but I am a new member and I am just gettting the hang of this site. I am the proud new owner of an Model 1893 that was built in 1900 and is in 38-55 caliber. I have wanted one for many years. It looks very solid but I haven't test fired it yet. I'm planning to do so without sending it to a gunsmith first. Am I crazy? It's in good shape but I am hoping to restore it to "like new" condition and use it for deer hunting. My question is, can I put sling swivels on it without harming its quality and value? Would the metal fore end be the best place to mount the forward swivel?
It's pretty heavy to cart around all day without a sling.
Thanks for any opinions on this.
>
> Jakemacd
model 1893 resoration
Moderators: Regnier (gunrunner), JohnK, Sure-Shot
-
Sure-Shot
- Distinguished Expert
- Posts: 1304
- Joined: Sun Nov 17, 2002 5:01 pm
- Location: Poulsbo, Washington, USA
They make a sling with straps that go around the butt stock and forarm without having to do anything to the rifle. Most gunparts places should have them.
If the barrel looks good, everything works when you cycle it, and if you glue a piece of pop can on the end of a case and the rifle won't close on it then you should be good to go with light loads. (the pop can cut out the size of the bullet case base, superglued to the end of the case makes sure there is not a head space issue that could allow blow back or other problems). If it closes with it in place have a smith inspect it.
edited to add, restoration ruins the value of a collectable rifle in most cases.
If the barrel looks good, everything works when you cycle it, and if you glue a piece of pop can on the end of a case and the rifle won't close on it then you should be good to go with light loads. (the pop can cut out the size of the bullet case base, superglued to the end of the case makes sure there is not a head space issue that could allow blow back or other problems). If it closes with it in place have a smith inspect it.
edited to add, restoration ruins the value of a collectable rifle in most cases.
GBOT, GBUSA
-
marlinman93
- Distinguished Expert
- Posts: 2966
- Joined: Sun Nov 10, 2002 1:22 pm
- Location: Portland, Oregon
If it's in "nice shape" I'd never add swivels, or restore it. You'll ruin the value, and just spend money.
If you fire it without checkingit out, be sure to put it on some sand bags, and then trap it in place with more bags. Then tie a string to the trigger and fire away. After that you can examine the cases and see how they look.
If you fire it without checkingit out, be sure to put it on some sand bags, and then trap it in place with more bags. Then tie a string to the trigger and fire away. After that you can examine the cases and see how they look.
Marlin lever actions 1870's-WWI, Ballards, and single shot rifles!
further to restorattion
Thank you Sure Shot and Marlin Man
You guys are smart.
I will try the Coke can trick, and use sandbags just to be safe.
Do I understand you to say that I shouldn't redo the wood or I will ruin its value?
Best regards
Jakemacd
You guys are smart.
I will try the Coke can trick, and use sandbags just to be safe.
Do I understand you to say that I shouldn't redo the wood or I will ruin its value?
Best regards
Jakemacd
jakemacd,
If there is no finish left, and it's kind of beat up and has been abused, you won't hurt it's value by restoring it. But as Sure-Shot said, it may cost as much or more to restore it than you will realize in increased value. If you post some pictures so of the folks here could give you an idea of whether you could restore it, or should leave it alone.
-jim
If there is no finish left, and it's kind of beat up and has been abused, you won't hurt it's value by restoring it. But as Sure-Shot said, it may cost as much or more to restore it than you will realize in increased value. If you post some pictures so of the folks here could give you an idea of whether you could restore it, or should leave it alone.
-jim
Thanks Jim and Sure Shot
I have an old wooden boat which I enjoyed refinishing and just assumed I would be paying homage to the gun by freshening up the woodwork. I will try and take some pictures and post them, thanks for the offer of advice. I guess if the gun is worth about what, 600-800 dollars, I have to ask myself if I would rather have a nice-looking gun to hunt with for the next 20 years or a shopworn gun that retains value that's really not all that high in the first place.
It would be nice if old boats, old cars, and old men were also worth more unrestored!
Jakemacd
I have an old wooden boat which I enjoyed refinishing and just assumed I would be paying homage to the gun by freshening up the woodwork. I will try and take some pictures and post them, thanks for the offer of advice. I guess if the gun is worth about what, 600-800 dollars, I have to ask myself if I would rather have a nice-looking gun to hunt with for the next 20 years or a shopworn gun that retains value that's really not all that high in the first place.
It would be nice if old boats, old cars, and old men were also worth more unrestored!
Jakemacd
LOL! I've never thought about getting myself "restored"! If I did, something else would just break!
The key to restoring original wood is to make it look good again with VERY little sanding. Dents and dings will often come out without having to sand them. Always sand with a sanding block. If you sand without one you will round off the edges at the tangs and buttplate. When that happens, it is very apparent when you put the gun back together, and it really hurts the value. To get out stains I use Kleenstrip two part wood bleach. It will get out any stain I've ever run into. Even deeply soaked in oil. It will also raise a lot of dents out of the wood.
If you can post some photos here, we can look at what you've got and give you an idea what could/should do with your rifle.
-jim
The key to restoring original wood is to make it look good again with VERY little sanding. Dents and dings will often come out without having to sand them. Always sand with a sanding block. If you sand without one you will round off the edges at the tangs and buttplate. When that happens, it is very apparent when you put the gun back together, and it really hurts the value. To get out stains I use Kleenstrip two part wood bleach. It will get out any stain I've ever run into. Even deeply soaked in oil. It will also raise a lot of dents out of the wood.
If you can post some photos here, we can look at what you've got and give you an idea what could/should do with your rifle.
-jim
-
singleshot3855
- Beginner
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sat Dec 29, 2007 8:27 pm
- Location: n. canton, ohio
CONGRATS!
I HAVE 2 OF THOSE 93 38-55'S. DO NOT RESTORE THEM OR ADD SLING SWIVELS. YOU MIGHT AS WELL THROW YOUR MONEY OUT THE WINDOW. IF YOU GO TO BROWNELLS? YOU WILL FIND A LEATHER SLING THAT GOES ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE STOCK AND THE FRONT MOUNTS TO THE BARREL USING NON-MARRING MATERIALS. KEEP THOSE AS ORIGINAL AS POSSIBLE. THEY ARE HARD TO FIND FOR SALE AND IN THAT CALIBER VERY DESIRABLE. AS FOR BEING AFRAID TO SHOOT IT. DO NOT USE JACKETED BULLETS. I USE 7 GRAINS UNIQUE POWDER WITH A 245 GRAIN LEAD BULLET. NEVER FOULED MY BARREL AND THE PRESSURE STAYS LOW, BUT NOT LOW ENOUGH TO DAMPEN YOU RANGE. HAVE FUN AND CONGRATS ON BUYING ONE.
make some noise so the idiots in the next holler can hear you!
Would that be on a sized case or a once fired case out of the rifles chamber?Sure-Shot wrote: If the barrel looks good, everything works when you cycle it, and if you glue a piece of pop can on the end of a case and the rifle won't close on it then you should be good to go with light loads. (the pop can cut out the size of the bullet case base, superglued to the end of the case makes sure there is not a head space issue that could allow blow back or other problems). If it closes with it in place have a smith inspect it.
Regards,
OldWolf
OldWolf
Oldwolf,
It doesn't matter whether the case is sized or fired. What Sure-Shot was
suggesting was kind of a home made headspace gage. On a straight case cartridge the gun headspaces off of the catridge rim. If the gun closes on the case with a piece of thin aluminum glued to the base of the cartridge, the gun made have too much headspace. A gunsmith with "GO" "NO GO" headspace gages should then check it more accurately.
-jim
It doesn't matter whether the case is sized or fired. What Sure-Shot was
suggesting was kind of a home made headspace gage. On a straight case cartridge the gun headspaces off of the catridge rim. If the gun closes on the case with a piece of thin aluminum glued to the base of the cartridge, the gun made have too much headspace. A gunsmith with "GO" "NO GO" headspace gages should then check it more accurately.
-jim
