I need some info on how to take the bolt down & put it back together.
I also need some pointers on a problem that arose with the first shoot.
I took the old rifle out for its first shoot last week. The bolt occasionally sticks halfway, causing a misfire. If I work the bolt slowly, this half-cocking happens less often, but it still happens.
For starters, I need to take the bolt down & clean it out. The bolt looks fine, as far as I know, but I'm still going to need to know how to strip it.
I'm hoping a good scrub will solve the problem, but if it doesn't, what could the real problem be?
I'll also add that the trigger pull is VERY light. A light pull is OK with me, but is it right for this rifle? I'm hoping it's not light and sticking do to wear and tear.
Model 81 DL bolt assembley/dissasembly? Bolt half-cocking?
Moderators: Regnier (gunrunner), JohnK, Sure-Shot
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TheBlackHand
- Beginner
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2005 11:36 pm
- Location: Hermann, MO
That I might give you an accurate reply, I just got an 81 from my parts rifle pile & took the bolt down. This operation is not for the faint of heart nor the easily frustrated. The key element is a screw on the side of the bolt near the head. This goes through the bolt body and into the threads of a collar that separates the spring and bolt head.
This screw retains parts that are under considerable spring tension, and when it is completely backed out, something WILL go flying if not restrained. I wrapped an old T-shirt around mine just now & still dropped the small screw. The spring & bolt head may now be removed from the bolt body.
Then tap a pin from the front of the bolt. This will release the firing pin & it is under no spring pressure. Make a diagram of how the parts were oriented while it is still fresh in your mind. Clean as desired. The instructions always say 'reassemble in reverse order', and my BP raises several notches as it is NEVER that easy.
To restore the small screw into the threaded collar, you will need three hands, a prehensile tail and the services of a very tolerant assistant. Reciting three pages from the Webster's unabridged curse word dictionary seemed to help me, but I cannot vouch for that effect for others.
In short, if you do not NEED to take the bolt completely down, I do not recommend it. I think a special fixture is needed here. For cleaning, spraying the bolt with aerosol carburator cleaner will do wonders. You can also soak the assembly in kerosene for a couple days to loosen the remaining crud. Blow dry with compressed air. ( while wearing goggles, of course)
In maintaining these old rifles, it is well to recall that the steel is not the best-tempered you will encounter and that they will wear badly in critical cases after hard use. Parts are not easy to find, either.
If you have ANY doubts, the best move would be to leave well enough alone. I had quite a time getting it back together.SW
This screw retains parts that are under considerable spring tension, and when it is completely backed out, something WILL go flying if not restrained. I wrapped an old T-shirt around mine just now & still dropped the small screw. The spring & bolt head may now be removed from the bolt body.
Then tap a pin from the front of the bolt. This will release the firing pin & it is under no spring pressure. Make a diagram of how the parts were oriented while it is still fresh in your mind. Clean as desired. The instructions always say 'reassemble in reverse order', and my BP raises several notches as it is NEVER that easy.
To restore the small screw into the threaded collar, you will need three hands, a prehensile tail and the services of a very tolerant assistant. Reciting three pages from the Webster's unabridged curse word dictionary seemed to help me, but I cannot vouch for that effect for others.
In short, if you do not NEED to take the bolt completely down, I do not recommend it. I think a special fixture is needed here. For cleaning, spraying the bolt with aerosol carburator cleaner will do wonders. You can also soak the assembly in kerosene for a couple days to loosen the remaining crud. Blow dry with compressed air. ( while wearing goggles, of course)
In maintaining these old rifles, it is well to recall that the steel is not the best-tempered you will encounter and that they will wear badly in critical cases after hard use. Parts are not easy to find, either.
If you have ANY doubts, the best move would be to leave well enough alone. I had quite a time getting it back together.SW
I am really not an expert - distinguished or otherwise!!
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TheBlackHand
- Beginner
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2005 11:36 pm
- Location: Hermann, MO
Thanks Steve. That's the answer I was hoping for...but not really, if you know what I mean. Unfortunately, I got so far as removing that little screw before I realized that this bolt didn't look so easy to take down. That's when I figured I better get some advice before moving on. So, what I'll do is get some clamps, a vice, ball bearings, some 30 weight motor oil, my wife and a few of the neighbors to try & re-screw that screw.
I had intended to soak the bolt in solvent for a few days. I had a Mauser bolt that was misfiring. A few days in solvent must've freed up some small bit of cosmoline & it worked fine after that. I figured this Marlin bolt might have a similar problem. Do you think a good soaking will help even if I don't take it down completely?
Thanks again.
I had intended to soak the bolt in solvent for a few days. I had a Mauser bolt that was misfiring. A few days in solvent must've freed up some small bit of cosmoline & it worked fine after that. I figured this Marlin bolt might have a similar problem. Do you think a good soaking will help even if I don't take it down completely?
Thanks again.
As far as the soaking, you should be able to tell if the interior of the bolt looks uncomonly cruddy. Usually, they are not that bad. Unless a previous owner oiled the heck out of it & the oil attracted dirt. Milsurps are a case unto themselves as they were often completely immersed in a vat of molten cosmo. Spraying with carb cleaner SHOULD get most of the crud out.
Now that you have the screw out, it is a lot of fun to get back in there. To do that, I put the striker end - with the big flat - in a vice. I then used a screwdriver with a wide blade to pry the collar away from the bolt head. Put the blade between the collar & head and twist to separate the two pieces. The spring is a lot stronger than it needs to be, and this will not be especially easy. I used a short screw with a head a little wider than 1/4" and when the collar was levered away from the bolt head, I put the screw head in between to hold the collar low enough that the threaded hole would line up with the hole in the bolt body. It took a couple tries, but I was able to get the screw started in this manner. The screw I used as a spacer was then easily pulled away using pliers. Then use a padded pair of large pliers to pull the bolt head back and rotate into the cock notch.
The tiny screw has a very narrow slot & the screwdriver that comes with a Smith & Wesson worked the best for me.
From your description, it sounds like the bolt is worn. There just isn't a lot that can be done other than watch for a bolt at a gun show that looks better than the one you have.
It took me about 15 min to get the tiny screw back where it belonged. Good luck!! SW
Now that you have the screw out, it is a lot of fun to get back in there. To do that, I put the striker end - with the big flat - in a vice. I then used a screwdriver with a wide blade to pry the collar away from the bolt head. Put the blade between the collar & head and twist to separate the two pieces. The spring is a lot stronger than it needs to be, and this will not be especially easy. I used a short screw with a head a little wider than 1/4" and when the collar was levered away from the bolt head, I put the screw head in between to hold the collar low enough that the threaded hole would line up with the hole in the bolt body. It took a couple tries, but I was able to get the screw started in this manner. The screw I used as a spacer was then easily pulled away using pliers. Then use a padded pair of large pliers to pull the bolt head back and rotate into the cock notch.
The tiny screw has a very narrow slot & the screwdriver that comes with a Smith & Wesson worked the best for me.
From your description, it sounds like the bolt is worn. There just isn't a lot that can be done other than watch for a bolt at a gun show that looks better than the one you have.
It took me about 15 min to get the tiny screw back where it belonged. Good luck!! SW
I am really not an expert - distinguished or otherwise!!
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Myfirstmarlin
- Beginner
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2023 8:30 am
Re: Model 81 DL bolt assembley/dissasembly? Bolt half-cocking?
It took me about sbd hour of searching to find this thread, I think it may be the only one on the entire internet and I may just have to make video because YouTube has about every bolt assembly you can think of being stripped and put back together except for the 81dl. I’ve never touched a bolt action before and while I feel lucky to be given this one for free in from what I’ve seen online superb condition and on my first cleaning I take that screw out or a easily cleanable without needing to strip it and I just knew from the tension of that sprint I had opened a can of worms. I do commend myself for thinking a special tool like a lot of bolts have for this exact reason is needed but was probably gonna have to spend a frustrating moment getting that spring to depress. Thanks for posting the question and thanks for the answers guys. Atleast this part of my journey has ended and can move on to the fun part.